Chicken Sajji — Quetta Style

Ingredients

• 1.5 kg Murgh (whole chicken) (Ask butcher to make deep cuts all over — essential for marinade penetration)
• 3 tbsp Kacha papaya paste (raw green papaya paste) (Peel and blend raw papaya — this is the secret tenderizer, not available in shops but easy to make)
• 2 tsp Namak (rock salt) (Use coarse rock salt, not table salt — Baloch cooks swear by it)
• 2 tbsp Lemon juice (Fresh only)
• 2 kg Charcoal or wood (Fruit wood like apricot or mulberry gives authentic flavor; charcoal works fine)
• 1 piece Seekh or skewer (long iron rod) (At least 60cm long — a thick BBQ skewer works, or use a cleaned iron rod)
• 2 cups Chawal (long-grain rice) (For serving — sajji rice is cooked in the drippings)
• 1 tsp Zeera (cumin seeds) (For the sajji rice only)
• 2 tbsp Ghee (clarified butter) (For finishing the rice)
• 0.5 tsp Kali mirch (black pepper) (Light crack of pepper added to drippings rice)

Instructions

1. PREP THE BIRD: Wash the whole chicken and pat dry. Using a sharp chaaku (knife), make deep diagonal cuts every 3cm all over the chicken — legs, breast, back, everywhere. The cuts should reach the bone. This is non-negotiable for proper sajji.
2. MARINATE OVERNIGHT: Mix kacha papaya paste with rock salt and lemon juice. Rub aggressively into every cut and cavity. Place the chicken in a covered container and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, ideally 12-14 hours. HINT: The papaya enzymes work best cold and slow — don't rush this step.
3. SKEWER IT: Push the seekh (skewer) through the cavity of the chicken lengthwise so it exits through the neck opening. Tie the legs and wings tightly with thin wire or kitchen string so nothing flops during cooking.
4. BUILD THE FIRE: Light your charcoal or wood and let it burn down to glowing embers — no open flame. The fire should be intense but steady. HINT: Sajji cooks on radiant heat, not flame. If flames appear, let them die or move the chicken away briefly.
5. ROAST THE SAJJI: Balance the skewer horizontally over the fire using bricks or a grill stand. Rotate every 8-10 minutes. Total cook time is 75-90 minutes for a 1.5kg chicken. The skin should be deeply bronzed and crackling, not black.
6. THE DRIP-CATCH TRICK: Place a tray under the chicken to catch drippings — these gold juices are used to cook the sajji rice. Don't waste a single drop.
7. COOK SAJJI RICE: In a heavy-bottomed deg (pot), heat the collected drippings plus ghee. Add cumin seeds and soaked rice. Add 3.5 cups water, salt to taste. Cover and cook on low heat for 20 minutes. This rice is a revelation.
8. REST AND SERVE: Let the chicken rest 5 minutes before serving. Serve whole on a large thal (metal platter) with the sajji rice, raw onion rings, and lemon wedges. No plates — eat with hands, Baloch style.